Pyrenees trip report 11 - 15 September
by Tim Earl
Day one we travelled from Toulouse Airport to Gedre in the Pyrenees
stopping at a beautiful hill top near Ausseing where we ate al fresco lunch
in an ancient meadow full of flowers and butterflies while watching for
raptor migration.
A hobby obliged with stunning views and several buzzards drifted past. Four
tree pipits sat on nearby wires showing their short hind claws and
yellowish fronts while jays and great spotted woodpeckers called in the
trees behind.
As we followed a river towards its source in the mountains an osprey flew
backwards and forwards affording great views. Red-legged partridge crept
into a maize field watched by whinchats perched on the tall stems.
A stop close to the rubbish dump at Pibeste was circled by a flock of about
50 ravens out of which lolloped red kites, about 20 or so. Several
hummingbird hawk moths were feeding in buddleia flowers.
Highlight of the day was pulling up outside our hotel in Gedre - a la
Br=E8che de Roland - and seeing an adult bearded vulture patrol one crag
before returning to roost on another opposite.
Birds seen:
We made our way up to the Cirque de Gavarnie after watching griffon
vultures and two peregrines soaring over the bearded vulture roost site (no
sign of the lammergeier, however).
The walk up to the Cirque was a constant succession of birds - Garden
warblers, serins, a family of mistle thrushes, pied flycatcher, gold and
firecrest, crested tit, and an adult bearded vulture which passed over our
heads as if showing off.
Among the migrants we saw were Bonelli's and willow warblers, redstarts,
and chiffchaffs
.
Red-billed choughs and their alpine yellow-billed cousins tumbled down the
mountain sides as golden eagles patrolled aloofly aloft.
At the old hotel overlooking the Cirque a shout went up as wallcreeper was
spotted working the sides of a sheer gorge. It called frequently while
flitting around the cliff face below us. Excited Frenchmen demanded a view
and pronounced that it was a kingfisher, to be put right by those of us
with educational leanings.
Later in the day at Endroit de Ossoue we watched short-toed eagle pass by
demonstrating its favourite food with a snake's tail hanging out of its
beak.
New birds for the day:
Clear weather throughout the trip made sun-block necessary. And on day
three it tempted us up onto the Pic du Midi.
Bearded vulture was again seen as were several golden eagles and griffon
vultures on the way up. Water pipits were studied closely and the calls of
marmots soon became familiar.
On reaching the top car park we walked along a contour path searching for
snowfinch, but without success. When one was spotted on the walls of the
observatory 1,000 feet up at the summit frustration really set in.
My patience snapped after lunch and I trudged up the long path to the top,
lungs hanging out of my mouth by the time I reached my goal.
The reward was excellent views of snowfinches enjoyed by me and two other
group members. An hour later the fittest of the remaining group came up
slowly only to see the top disappear into mist, and with it the birds...
We had great views of black woodpecker on the way back to the hotel.
New birds for the day:
Our last day in the mountains was spent high in the Vallee d'Ossoue where
raptors put on a magnificent display. Up to 50 griffon vultures were in the
air together at one moment, accompanied by three juvenile bearded vultures
and two golden eagles. Altogether I saw seven different bearded and about
70 or more griffon vultures that day.
There were few migrants but we did see rufous-tailed rock thrush, northern
wheatears and redstarts among the bushes close by.
A walk up to the Spanish border at Tourmelet later in the afternoon
produced the tail end of a raptor passage with seven honey buzzards (one
pale phase), two sparrowhawks and a marsh harrier passing at eye-level.
New birds for the day:
At the Barrage de Gloriette we saw several grounded migrants including
blackcap, willow warbler, yellowhammer and robin. Golden eagle and griffon
vulture were also seen.
The trip back to Toulouse was marked by an early morning bearded vulture
from the hotel car park, a great start.
At the rubbish dump a singing Cetti's warbler was added to the list while
later we counted 449 buzzards along the 200km route.
Our beautiful field produced swallow-tailed butterfly, Queen of Spain
fritillary and many clouded yellows. In the woods behind we added
long-tailed tit to the list.
New birds for the day:
Tim Earl
Guernsey