Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 23:11:31

Chaine

From: Tim Earl (timearl_at_itl.net)


Verte

Trip report South Africa 5-20.11.95

5.11.95
Arrived Cape Town from Heathrow with SAA. Hired a car. Stayed in a self-catering flat owned by Jim Enticott and Caz Thomas (cthomas_at_botzoo.uct.ac.za). Had my first lifer Greater crested swallow on the steps leading up to it. Jim took me out for a recce which gave me Maccoa duck (the only ones of the trip) and some common seabirds. Jim is a freelance ornithologist and he and Caz welcome birders with open arms. The accommodation is great value and will sleep five/six. Jim is available to hire as a guide on a daily basis. He is one of the world's top seabird-men.
6-7.11.95
Jim, Caz and their son Daniel took me into the Karoo via the West Coast Nature Reserve for an overnight camping stay. This was one of the highlights of the trip, especially waking, as promised, to the calls of Pririt batis. Dipped on Cinnamon-breasted warbler but had all the other Karoo endemics. Yellow-rumped (Karoo) eremomela was hard work but worth the effort.
8.11.95
To the botanical gardens at Kirstenbosch, a great site for easy pics of Cape sugarbirds, Orange-breasted sunbirds et al. Dipped on Knysna warbler, though not through want of trying.
9.11.95
Sir Lowry's Pass for a morning spent getting Cape rockjumper and Victorin's warbler. Hard work but most satisfying. Back to Kommetje for successful Bank cormorant attempt. Got Rufous-chested sparrowhawk in a failed attempt for Burchall's coucal.
10.11.95
Tried Rondelflei Nature Reserve for Painted snipe and Flufftails but these had not been seen in years. Had great shots of Malachite kingfisher nesting and picked up Acacia pied barbet for my pains. Went on to Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve which was wonderful. Had 14 species starting "Cape..." in the visit. Flushed Peregrine from a still twitching Speckled pigeon in the road. Threw kill into the fynbos scrub and later saw it had gone. At the lighthouse four Buzzards drifted by, wheeled for several minutes mewing and then drifted off north. Had just seen the end of their southerly migration and the start of the northern - what a moment. Had great pics of Cape siskin.
11-12.11.95
We all went to De Hoop Nature Reserve for another overnight camp. It was an uninspiring reserve but excellent camp site. Had great views of my first whales (Southern right) and in a nearby reserve got six roosting Damara terns (within 20ft, undisturbed but camera in my car).
13.11.95
Flew to Durban after Jim helped me get Knysna warbler in Cape Town suburban rerserve. Overnight with friends in Durban.
14-15.11.95
Hired car and drove 310km to Mkuzi Nature Reserve for two nights in luxurious camp/tent with cooking area, shower and maid. Wonderful reserve but I found solo birding from a hire car difficult and walking forest likewise. This site needs two pairs of eyes and tapes, not to lure but to confirm sounds. Brilliant moments included Pygmy goose (at last, on fifth African trip) Purple crested lourie, Trumpeter hornbill (an wind-band of them) plus Black and White rhino.
16.11.95
After walking Mkuzi's fig forest trail (wonderful) to St Lucia for overnight self catering close to the gates of Cap Vidal Nature Reserve.
17.11.95
Early start (as every day) to the reserve for a terrific coastal mist forest walk until lunch. Found several parties of birds including Green twinspot, Forest weaver, and Square-tailed drongo. I was twitched by a Knysna lourie which flew into a tree above my head came down to identify me and pushed off once it got the tick. Left at mid-day for six-hour drive, non-stop, to Underberg. Overnight with Robin and Bella Guy. Robin is starting a birding/guide/accommodation service which would be superb. (Telephone from UK 0027 33 701 1020, fax 701 1220).
18.11.95
Up the Sani Pass into the Drakensberg Mountains and Lesotho with the Midlands Bird Club on a 24-person overnight trip. I went from +45degC and high humidity to freezing fog in 12 hours. Lesotho is a world apart from South Africa (take your passport for the border posts. Had Wattled crane on the way up but dipped on Stanley's bustard seen by others. Sentinel rock-thrush, Drakensberg siskin and Orange-breasted rockjumper met us at the SaniPass Chalet where we spent the cold night.
19.11.95
My "official birthday" from now on. The day I had Lammergieir for the first time (5.15am 100ft overhead and several more times before we reached a nest site that had Lanners circling underneath and Cape vulture drifting past). Gurney's sugarbird interupted my return passport control process, to the alarm of the customs man as I ran off, and Bush blackcap completed a wonderful trip with terrific people.
20.11.95
Saw me knee deep in soaking grassland looking for Blue swallow with Robin Guy. These birds nest in roof of the holes left by Aardvarks which have dug out termite mounds. Robin showed me some of the Natal habitats and night stops he uses on his guided tours and promises 250 species in five days. Last lifer was Terrestrial bulbul before flying Durban-Johannesberg-Heathrow with SAA.
See South Africa.txt for full list of birds

Tim Earl

timearl_at_itl.net